Sugar cane factory in Calheta

Sociedade dos Engenhos Da Calheta is an old sugar cane factory in the village of Calheta that truly takes you back in time. We were lucky to visit in April, the season when sugar cane is harvested, and we could see this plant in operation. The steam from the chimney, the smell of honey, and the roaring noise of the machines – it’s an unforgettable experience to say the least.

The factory is only open for a few weeks in April and May since the sugar cane juice has to be squeezed very quickly after harvesting or else the plants dry out and become useless. You can see the whole process from unloading the truck by crane to the crushing of sugar cane, and finally boiling the juice in huge steaming pots.

There is no entrance fee and visitors can roam freely around this little factory. For just 0,6 EUR you can taste some of the sugar cane rum, sugar cane honey, and other produce.

The factory is open the whole year round, but of course the best time to visit is during the sugar cane harvest season when you can see it in full action.

Scenic inland roads of Madeira

You haven’t experienced Madeira to the fullest unless you drove at least a couple of the inland routes. The mountain roads in Madeira are like nowhere else and you truly have to see it to believe it. Here are some of our favourite roads (I also indicated them on the map), but I think you can try just any of them and you’ll see what it’s all about (it’s not always about the scenery as much as it is about the experience).

• The above mentioned scenic road between the Eira do Serrado and Pico do Areeiro
• Caminho de Cales e Chada between Calheta and Rabacal
• Estrada da Eira do Serrado between Funchal and the Nun’s Valley
• The shortest road between Santana and Ribeiro Frio
• The coastal drive between Santana and Sao Vicente
• Any road above Funchal (Monte area)

Miradouros do Paredão

Located on a very scenic road in between the popular tourist spots Curral das Freiras (Nun’s Valley) and Pico do Areeiro, the two viewpoints of Paredao are not only quieter, but probably even more spectacular than the extremely popular nearby Eira do Serrado viewpoint. While at Eira do Serrado you will be surrounded by loud groups of tourists traveling in big busses, you’ll only find one or two cars at the small parking lot of Miradouros do Paredão.

Just a short walk leads you to a viewpoint overlooking the Nun’s Valley, and if you take a path to the left, you’ll soon arrive at the viewpoint looking towards the Southern coast of Madeira. I can’t really tell you what you’ll see there as that side of the mountain was covered by clouds when we visited. But what a feeling – walking above the clouds!

The first section of this scenic nameless road without a number is so steep that it probably keeps all the big busses away from here forcing them to drive around and take a detour to Pico do Areeiro. However, this is one of the most beautiful roads in Madeira, so don’t miss it.

Miradouro Garganta Funda

When you see the narrow roads leading towards the coast to Miradouro Garganta Funda you will understand why this place isn’t on the radar of most Madeira travellers. Obey the signs that forbid to drive further (you’ll be glad you did when you see the road further down), leave your car, and walk the last couple of hundred meters to the viewpoint.

At first sight there isn’t much to see here, just a few abandoned old buildings and one or two cows. Keep walking all the way to the small viewing platform in the direction of the coast and completely unexpected you’ll see a beautiful waterfall in the distance. Don’t miss, even if just for the experience of getting there. You’ll get to know a little piece of Madeira where time truly stood still.

Tiny pebbled beach near Illheus da Janela

Tucked away behind a big rock this tiny nameless beach on the Northern coast of Madeira is truly hidden from the sight of the passers by. If you aren’t looking for it, the chances are small that you’ll just stumble on this place by coincidence. Leave your car at the parking lot opposite a small power plant and walk towards the staircase leading to the hole in the middle of the mountain (don’t worry, it’s just a few steps). Once you reach the top, a fantastic view opens up to you with impressive rock formations in the sea. Ok, you can also reach the beach just by walking next to the river, but it doesn’t have the same wow effect.

Chances are you will be completely on your own here. It was one of our favourite beaches of Madeira where the kids could play with the rocks and we just sat there watching the waves crash against the rocks. It’s a great place to take a picnic and spend an hour or even more.

Achadas da Cruz cable car

Achadas da Cruz cable car brings you to Fajã da Quebrada Nova by the beach (see also featured image). This place should actually be very high on the best places to visit in Madeira list, but it’s a true hidden gem not mentioned in most travel guides and overlooked by most tourists, and I guess it’s better if it stays that way. Up to a few years ago only accessible by boat, it feels like the most remote place in the world.  To us it was one of the best unexpected discoveries and one of the most special places of Madeira.

We expected to spend just a few minutes here, but almost two hours flew by exploring this beautiful coastline undiscovered by tourists. We had this hidden gem all to ourselves.  Just the pebbled beach, the sea, and spectacular nature that makes you feel small and humble. It’s our kind of paradise!

Here you can read more about this beautiful place that can be reached by Achadas da Cruz cable car.

ONE OF OUR ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE PLACES IN MADEIRA

Bom Jardim.

Bom Jardim. The King of Chickens has been serving mouth-watering barbecued chickens, with or without piri piri, long before Nando’s came on the scene. For us that makes it one of the best restaurants in Lisbon.  Though it serves other grilled meats, chargrilled chicken with salad and chips is the thing to go for.

Chicken cooked on a charcoal grill is one of Lisbon's most famous dishes © Bernhard Richter/Shutterstock

Best for views: Bica

Bica is best known for its lift of the same name, a hybrid funicular/tram which glides up one of Lisbon’s steepest cobbled streets. From the top, it’s a short walk to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina, an alluring viewpoint gazing out over the western riverfront.

Best restaurant in Lisbon for tapas

Pharmacia. Part of the Pharmaceutical Museum, this restaurant’s quirky décor features retro fittings from old chemist shops. However, the big pull is the river view from the front terrace. The speciality here is petiscos, Portuguese-style tapas, such as duck croquettes, salted-cod fritters or sublime aubergine-wrapped goat’s cheese.

Best outdoor terrace

Noobai. Perched under the lip of the Miradouro de Santa Catarina, when it comes to restaurants with a view, Noobai is hard to beat. The uninterrupted views across the Tagus are as tasty as the varied menu, which features everything from healthy brunches to petiscos and tuna steaks.

The terrace at Noobai has one of the best views in town © Noobai

Best for upmarket dining: Chiado

Chiado is Lisbon’s upmarket shopping district and home to its most famous café, A Brasileira. It has also become the domain of Lisbon’s leading celebrity chef, José Avillez. You’ll find his double Michelin-starred restaurant, Belcanto here, along with two more affordable options:

Best restaurants in Lisbon? Start in Cais do Sodré

The  formerly rundown waterfront district of Cais do Sodré has been cleaned up in recent years and is now home to some of the city’s hippest bars and restaurants. A wander down Rua Cor de Rosa or “pink street” will lead you to some of the best, from hip taco joints to traditional tascas.

For a bit of everything

Mercado da Ribeira, AKA the Time Out market. The spacious 1930s building and long-standing produce market has been given a new lease of life since it became a giant food hall. Many of Lisbon’s leading restaurants showcase their cuisine at a series of stalls here. Sit at one of the communal benches in the central area, and sample everything from smoked ham to sheep’s cheeses, organic salads and seafood.

Lisbon's famous Pink Street © By Kavalenkava/Shutterstock

Best for bargains: Baixa

The Baixa is Lisbon’s compact grid of streets in the historic centre. One of the first examples of town planning, the district was designed as the city's commercial hub when it was rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1755. Though it has become something of a tourist epicentre, it still has plenty of restaurants which cater to local office workers. And that means local prices.

For fast food Lisbon-style

Beira Gare. Right opposite the impressive frontage of Rossio station, Beira Gare (which means beside the station) caters to commuters on the line out to Baixa and Lisbon’s northern suburbs. If you want something quick, tasty and inexpensive, Beira Gare ticks all three boxes with aplomb. Grab a squished-in table or perch at the bar and tuck into the likes of grilled octopus, pork steaks or hake fillets with rice, all for under €10.

And what about fine dining?

Portugal’s cuisine is much underrated, with an emphasis on fresh fish, seafood and vegetables – indeed, a recent survey showed the Portuguese consume the least processed foods in Europe. Both cities have their fair share of upmarket eating places, where you can sample innovative, exciting food for less than you would pay for the same calibre of cooking elsewhere in Europe.

In Porto, the two-Michelin-starred Yeatman restaurant boasts amazing vistas to rival its food. Meanwhile in Lisbon, José Avillez has two Michelin stars at his Belcanto restaurant, but also runs a few more affordable and informal places – the theatrical, fun Mini Bar, for example, serves playful dishes such as exploding olives, and ice-cream cones made of seaweed and filled with tuna tartare.

Octopus at a Portuguese restaurant © Benoit Daoust/Shutterstock

What about the big sights?

There’s plenty to see in both Lisbon and Porto – the classic Porto sights are the pretty Torre dos Clérigos, the wacky Lello bookshop – whose lavish Art Nouveau interior is said to have inspired JK Rowling’s Harry Potter books – and the stunning Serralves contemporary art museum set in beautiful gardens.

However, Porto can’t really compete with Lisbon in terms of sheer volume of sights. Packed into the capital highlights include the Castelo de São Jorge, the Jeronimos Monastery and Berardo Collection in Belém, and the fantastic Gulbenkian art museum – and that’s just the start.

Jeronimos Monastery © Dennis van de Water/Shutterstock

Which city has the most beautiful views?

Let’s face it, they both have fantastic views over their respective riverfronts, squares and ancient quarters.

Set on seven hills, Lisbon has several miradouros – open viewing areas where locals gather at sunset to chat and admire the panoramas below – including the beautiful tile-clad Miradouro de Santa Luzia which looks down over the maze of tumble-down buildings in the Alfama quarter to the river and beyond, and the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, looking over the city’s central grid of streets to the Castelo de São Jorge opposite.

Porto has plenty of impressive viewpoints too – one of the best is from the top tier of the Ponte Dom Luís I. From here you can enjoy the fantastic vistas over the UNESCO World Heritage Ribeira district and across to the port suburb of Vila Nova de Gaia.

Ponte Dom Luís I © Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Where can I find the best local food?

Porto’s cuisine is perhaps the more hearty, as befits a northern city, with its local specialities of tripe and the francesinha, a gut-busting cooked sandwich containing steak, sausage and ham, and covered in melted cheese and a tomato and beer sauce.

In Lisbon, the capital has a rather more refined delicacy – the delicious flaky pastel de natacustard tart. It’s best eaten warm, and sprinkled with cinnamon, at the beautifully tiled Pastéis de Belem, in the suburb of Belém, where the tasty treat was invented and is still handmade today.

Pastel de nata © Altan Can/Shutterstock

For a Fun City Break: Porto

Porto – city of Port wine and Harry Potter inspiration – has been on the travel radar for a few years now. Its combination of charming streets, buzzy restaurants and proximity to the Douro wine region make it great city break choice. In summer, festivals like Primavera Sound (held in June) bring top-name alternative acts like Sigur Ros and PJ Harvey to the city, along with a music-loving crowd, while in winter wine bars draw romantic couples to their cosy corners.

The city is a great starting point for a drive into the Douro valley to taste full-bodied wines or learn how the famous port is made. The terraced vineyards winding along the river are delightfully picturesque as you drive by.

Back in town the famous Livaria Lello bookshop is said to be the inspiration behind JK Rowling’s Ollivander Wand Emporium (Rowling lived in the city for a short while), while the long gowns of the university’s students seemingly also made their way into the Potter books.

Porto – one of the best places to visit in Portugal for a city break © Benedikt Saxler/Shutterstock

For Top-Notch Seafood: The Algarve

OK, so the Algarve has a reputation for rowdy sunburned Brits, but outside of the major resort areas the region has a whole lot to offer. Especially when it comes to seafood. There are now 8 Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, enough for a week-long gourmet road trip. For us, that's reason enough to make the list of best places to visit in Portugal

One of our favourites is Henrique Leis in Almancil, a restaurant housed in a chic Swiss Chalet and run by a Brazilian cooking up a twist on French cuisine. Having been awarded a Michelin star every year for the past 18 years Leis is a giant on the food scene here, and his tasting menus look to both his South American heritage and French training combined with local, seasonal ingredients. You’ll find delicious dishes like a duo of red snapper and sea scallops and the wine list is hard to beat. The restaurant has two dining rooms –  a cosy one for winter, and a breezy open room for the summer – so you’ll enjoy the experience no matter when you visit. Reservations are recommended.

The best places to visit in Portugal

For Serious History: Evora

With a history that dates back more than 5,000 years, Evora in central Portugal is a fascinating place to visit. The whole historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you’ll find medieval city walls, a very-well preserved Roman temple and more. A great place to start is the seriously creepy Capela dos Ossos or Chapel of Bones, built by a Franciscan Friar in the 16th century to represent the brevity of the human lifespan. The walls of the chapel are entirely covered with skulls and bones, while the ceiling is painted with morbid motifs. Up to 5,000 human remains are thought to have been used in the church’s construction, supplied by the town’s graveyards.

Shake off the chapel gloom with a brisk walk to see the Roman temple, built in the 1st century AD to honour Emperor Augustus, in what was once the town’s main square. In the Middle Ages the temple was incorporated into the town’s castle, although this structure no longer remains. Head to the nearby Evora Museum for greater insight about the town’s Roman past.

History aside, Evora also has plenty of restaurants offering hearty Alentejan cuisine, a couple of stylish boutique hotels, and the wines from the area are among the best in Portugal.

Inspired by our list of the best places to visit in Portugal? We can help! Our new tailor-made travel service will pair you with a local expert who can organise a fully personalised itinerary for you. 

Evora old town is filled with charming streets © RossHelen/Shutterstock

For Big Wave Surfing: Nazare

Nazare, a small town on the Atlantic Coast north of Lisbon, has emerged in recent years as one of the world’s top destinations for big wave surfing. An underwater canyon offshore disrupts the waves as they break, creating monster sizes. Intrepid travellers have been surfing at Nazare since the late ‘60s, but it only started to gain international acclaim in more recent years., when big wave surfer Garrett McNamara arrived to challenge the wave in 2010. Since 2016, Nazare has hosted a WSL Big Wave Championships and the destination looks set to keep growing in popularity. To see the big wave surfers for yourself head to Nazare in mid-November.

The town has kept its sleepy fishing village feel, and you’re guaranteed to find fresh seafood and local Portuguese dishes at one of the traditional tascas in town. There are two beaches to choose from – north beach, where the surf action happens, and Nazare beach, a wide half-moon of sand great for chilling out on. If you’re up and about in the early morning head down to the harbour to see the fishermen unloading their catch of the day.

A big wave surfer in Nazare, Portugal © Albert Russ/Shutterstock